Champagne Valentin Leflaive GR 14 45

Derived from the village of Grauves, a premier cru located on the other side of the Côte de Blanc's main wine-growing escarpment, Leflaive's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Gr1445 is based on the 2014 vintage and was disgorged in September 2018 with four and a half grams per liter dosage. Offering up aromas of sweet confit lemon, yellow apple and warm bread, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and charming, with lively acids and a nicely defined finish. There's a touch less depth and complexity than is to be found in its rosé counterpart, but this is still a very creditable effort that's ideally adapted to service as an apéritif.